Preparations for the Camino de Santiago
Days 56 – 60
February 23 – 26
Moorpark, CA
I spent twenty-four hours on an
airplane going from Santiago, Chile to Lima, Peru to Mexico City, Mexico to Los
Angeles, California. This brief trip
back home was an artifact of a plan drafted months ago: I originally was going
to spend two months in South America and six months hiking the Appalachian
Trail, so I bought a return flight to LAX two months after I planned to fly to
Lima. Alas, plans are like underwear:
the longer you are attached to them, the more they stink and need to be
changed. So when that plan fell through,
I bought a three-month round-trip ticket to Europe, with Barcelona, Spain as my
first stop.
The new plan: walk the Camino de Santiago. A good friend of mine first told me about
this 800 kilometer (500 mile) pilgrimage from Saint Jean Pied de Port, France
to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. The
Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) began as a pilgrimage in 812 A.D. after
the remains of Saint James were discovered buried near the western Spanish coast. The site of his remains became the city of
Santiago de Compostela, the later word in the city’s name meaning “field of
stars.” Because the major east-to-west
route that converges other European routes is traced overhead by the Milky Way
at night, pilgrims believed they were being lead to Santiago by a field of
stars. Catholics from all over Europe
would journey to the cathedral where his remains were buried to pay their
respects, receiving hospitality along the way.
The Camino has been traveled by pilgrims every year since it began in
812, booming for centuries at a time and experiencing reduced traffic during the Dark Ages and times of war. Now, the Camino has evolved past its strictly
religious context into a social and spiritual experience, with over 250,000
people from all over the world walking the Camino each year.
So I made my decision: I will walk the Camino de Santiago,
specifically the French Way. I have many
reasons for wanting to complete this journey, the details of which I will save
for my next blog post. As a result, my
four day detour home served a great purpose: allowing me to make preparations
for the month-long pilgrimage and the follow-on two months in the rest of
Europe. First, I had to get rid of a few
things, like my tent, sleeping mat, water filter, GPS, and a select few other
things that had extreme utility in Patagonia yet would prove useless dead
weight in Europe. Then, I needed a few
more things, like a change of clothes that I stubbornly did not bring with me
to South America. On as positive note, I
am now quite proficient at washing my clothes in random buckets found in
hostels, something I would do at night so I could have dry, clean clothes in
the morning.
Stopping off in California also afforded me the
opportunities to visit with family, ride a bicycle along the beach, and eat
copious amounts of Mexican food, which was non-existent in South America. And even if it was, there is something about
Californian Mexican food that just hits the spot like no other place.
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