Monday, May 21, 2018

Days 127-128: I Guess I'll Go to London


I Guess I’ll Go to London
Days 127 – 128
May 4 – 5
London, United Kingdom

My goal was to get to from Belgium to Scotland and start exploring the highlands, but the cheapest method routed me through London.  And when circumstance conspires for me to see one of Earth’s most famous cities, opportunity is worth following. 

I think it is worthwhile to note that there is a difference between the United Kingdom, Britain, and England, something that I did not fully realize until I met two English chaps in Prague.  The first of this triad is England, which is just that: England, the country itself.  The one we all know and love as the kingdom on a tiny island that managed to control one quarter of the world’s population at its peak a century ago, and they were even being sneaky enough to get Scotland to join their ranks with the Act of Union in 1707.  In the United States, when we think of the British that we spanked back in 1776, we think of the English, which made up the majority of the Red Coats (Scots were fighting on both sides of the war).  And although they left us on our merry way for a while, they did throw a tiff about it in 1812, but that is another story.  Now, Britain has a bit of a different background.  See, all English are British, but not all British are English.  It’s a little bit like the square and rectangle thing.  Great Britain includes not just England but also the countries of Scotland and Wales.  But don’t call a Scot a Brit!  They have a proud history and identify themselves as being Scottish, although semantically they are also British.  To make the United Kingdom, just tack on the country of Northern Ireland, and you’re set.  Without knowing more about the subject, I suspect that the greatest difference between Great Britain and the United Kingdom (besides the inclusion of Northern Ireland) is the lack of a pronoun to describe people from the latter.  You’ve heard of the British, but who has ever heard of a United Kingdomer?  Perhaps the term UniKorn is prefered?  Just throwing some ideas out there.

It should be specially noted here that (the Republic of) Ireland is not included in any of these three designations.  This is pretty important.  Not only is Ireland a separate country from Northern Ireland, but the Irish have an exceptional hatred for the English that we Americans had lost in the wake of WWII.  With all those alliances with Winston Churchill against the Nazis and the Commies, I think we found it in our hearts to forgive the old Red Coats for their centuries of imperial shenanigans.  This is not as true with the Irish.  They still hate them, but that is another story for later when I visit the island of my ancestors.

During my six hour bus journey from Belgium to London, I spent two hours in France, thirty minutes of which were spent in mandatory customs before crossing the English Channel, and thirty seconds of which were spent being hand-frisked by a quite-ugly, rather-large French customs official.  And while I like to think that he specifically chose to frisk me because of my dashing good looks and husky beard, it turns out he was frisking everyone, since there was not a single piece of technology in the building being used for scanning people for weapons.  In 21st century America, we have scanners that are so high-speed that they can see what kind of lint you have in your pocket.  In 21st century France, they just molest you.  You never know if someone is carrying a dangerous butter knife next to their fun parts.  I suppose that when you spend all of your nation’s income on welfare, you don’t have much money left over for security. 

In 1944, there was only one way to cross the English Channel: with brute force and a massive coalition military.  In 2018, there are three ways to cross the English Channel: above it, on top of it, and under it.  You can fly, you can take a boat, or you can board a train that goes through a tunnel dug under the channel.  None of these are good options for those with claustrophobia, but one of them is worse than others (I don’t have claustrophobia, I’m just speaking facetiously).  When I booked a bus from Ghent to London, I was curious how we were going to drive on water.  My questions were answered as the tube we parked in grew enclosing walls and we assumed travel inception: on a bus, in a train, in a tunnel, under the English Channel. 

In London, I found that the cheapest, fastest, and possibly the most dangerous way to travel was on a bicycle.  And with a bike-sharing service with charging stations as common as 7/11 in Thailand, it was easy to grab a ride from anywhere to anywhere.  I have to admit, it was hard on the brain to process navigation of the intricate maze that is the London inner-city street map, not to mention relearning how to flow with traffic when they are driving on the wrong side of the road.  Normally, when I ride, I make eye contact with drivers before crossing streets to ensure that they saw me and aren’t going to unite me with thousands of pounds of metal, plastic, and rubber.  Which is why I was surprised when I looked into the cockpit of the first car that crossed paths with me and saw no one there!  Then again, I’m not used to looking at the seat on the right for the driver. 

With only a short time in London, I did some of the typical London bucket list items: I saw Big Ben (which is under construction for the first time in history), attended communion at Westminster Abbey (the best way see the interior without having to pay the outrageous entry fee), ate fish and chips (I think the Brits make fries better than the Belgians, but I wouldn’t say this to their face, mostly because I have better things to do than listen to an hour-long rant about fries), walked across London Bridge (it’s just a bridge, nothing special, with cars and people just like any other bridge), watched the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace, and took advantage of all of the free museums.  But 48 hours was all I had, and at the end of it I was happy to be on my way to Glasgow in the land of my red-bearded ancestors: Scotland!

Big Ben was under construction while I was there.
While many people were disappointed by this, I saw
it as special.  I now possess a rare photo of the famous
tower covered in scaffolding, a first (and possibly last)
time in history.
At the Tate Modern, there is a box made out of mirrors with many holes
drilled into it.  While unimpressive from the outside, it's a trip on the inside.
Also at the Tate Modern is a tower of radios standing
from the floor to the ceiling, all playing a station from
a different region of the world.
I had one of the best seats outside of Buckingham Palace atop a statue that only
kids (and me) were brave enough (persistent enough) to climb.

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