Days 12-16: Learning Spanish in Cusco

Learning Spanish in Cusco

Days 12 – 16

January 9 – 13

Cusco, Peru

It has been sixteen years since my last Spanish class in high school.  And with almost no use, needless to say, most of the entire language has escaped me.  In the many months leading up to my traveling to South America, I had plans to relearn Spanish, but my summer and last semester of college were far more hectic than expected.  So, when I found out I could take a week-long Spanish emersion course and live with a host family in the city, I jumped on the opportunity.  

Tuesday morning after returning from Machu Picchu, I met my host family, Enrique and Edith.  Living on the east side of the city put me far enough from the tourist center of Cusco that I was no longer hassled on the streets (well, just less frequently).  That afternoon, I started my first four-hour Spanish lesson.  The coursework was effective, and the constant need to speak Spanish with my host family and other locals further accelerated my learning.  In just one week of studying, I found myself speaking and listening enough to get by.  

My host family, Enrique and Edith, who insisted that I call them Papa and Mama.

Thursday afternoon, during the last hour of my Spanish class, a large public demonstration marched down Avandia del Sol (the main street next to the schoolhouse) in protest of the current president’s decision to pardon the former president Alberto Fujimori, who ended his presidency in 2000 by fleeing Peru for Japan amid a major scandal involving corruption and human rights violations.  Armed police marched around the formation, and many protesters had flags and banners advocating extremism, violence, and communism.  They also held pictures of the terrorist leaders who were rampant in Peru in the 80’s and 90’s.  Later that night, after dinner with my host family, we watched some bad news on the television.  A friend of Enrique and Edith was shot and killed in public by a police officer at 4:00 PM.  The police officer was the father of the victim’s lover.  Cusco is turning out to be a city like any other I’ve visited: full of pollution, crime, and political strife.

Protest in the streets as seen from my classroom window.

By Saturday, I could feel myself becoming more upset with the city of Cusco.  As the central hub for Machu Picchu and many other nearby tourist attractions, tourism is a major part of the economy, consuming hotels, restaurants, guide services, street vendors, and drug dealers.  Having spent this much time in such a touristy city, I came to realize something: I’ve seen this city before.  Not this exact city with its unique history and architecture, but the general feel of a city that has been consumed by the tourist industry.  Same noise, light, and air pollution.  Same junk pop culture.  Same staged cultural events.  Same homeless population who learned enough English to ask for money.  Same petty thieves hidden amongst the same anonymous sea of people.  Same disharmony between pedestrians and motorists.  Same shady guy wearing a jacket with his hands in his pockets, asking me which drugs I would like to buy.  Same bars filled with the same clientele.  Same selfie-stick-wielding battalion of Instagram Hoplites patrolling the streets.  Same stray animals eating the same bags of trash haphazardly placed by the same inconsiderate shopkeepers.  Same discriminatory pricing against foreigners.  And the same street vendor zombies making a bee line for my wallet, trying to sell me the same lackluster tour packages, the same useless trinkets labeled as souvenirs, and the same overpriced restaurants with more investment in décor than culinary expertise.  

Cusco was the original capital of the Incan Empire.  However, post colonization
by the Spanish gave Cusco its distinct colonial appearance that is now protected
by UNESCO.  At least it looks nice from afar.

By Saturday, I bought my ticket out of the city.  I had a couple more days to explore and learn Spanish before venturing into regions where English was scarce, but I was happy to know I would be leaving this city behind me soon.